Santana In Madeira - A Living History

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Santana is a medium sized town located in the north-east of Madeira island.
Situated just over a kilometre from the coast, it is the principal town of the parish of Santana and a delightful tourist destination.
The knowledgeable holiday-maker will already know that the Madeiran Archipelago offers a plethora of unique places to visit, features to discover and activities to enjoy.
However, there is perhaps no other popular tourist destination on the main island that offers the day-tripper a more authentic opportunity to sample at first hand the traditional ways of life of the Madeiran people.
The name Santana itself, literally meaning Saint Ann, reflects the importance of religion in the development of Madeira.
Like any other village, town or city that has grown from an ancient settlement, Santana was founded around an original chapel.
But, it is not for its churches, or the beauty of their architecture, that Santana is famous.
The parish of Santana has a rich agricultural heritage that still thrives today.
Apple, cherry and pear orchards are interspersed with fields of cabbages, carrots, maize and potatoes.
All the crops are organically grown, without the use of modern fertilizers or pesticides.
This may make the appearance of the final produce more unsightly than most of us will be used to as traditional methods cannot completely eradicate pests and blight.
However, a local Madeiran saying is that the ugly fruit tastes the best.
Believe me, from experience I can definitely tell you that this saying is well founded.
As you drive across the rural landscape, making your way into the heart of Santana, you may begin to notice a number of strange shaped structures.
Small, triangular and often appearing old and neglected, or even derelict, these structures give you a hint of the delight that awaits you in the town centre.
These structures bear the local name of Palheiros, which translated means haystacks.
This name may confuse you as, today, many Palheiros have a corrugated roof that slopes steeply down either side to the ground from a central apex.
In fact, the wooden framed, A-shaped Palheiros are cow sheds that traditionally had a thatched roof - hence the name.
However, it is not until you reach Santana town centre that you realise the full significance of the Palheiros.
For here, you will find essentially the same structures serving not as cow sheds but as peoples' homes.
Of course, for this purpose the Palheiros have been finished to a much more appealing design.
But, as you look at the brightly painted red doors and green window frames in the white-washed walls remember that, in essence, you are looking at nothing more than a slightly larger cow shed.
Perhaps even more surprising is the fact that, largely due to a government subsidy, local families still occupy a number of these Palheiros as their only residence.
In return for a greater subsidy, some houses are freely open to the public.
If you take the opportunity to enter one of these tiny homes you are likely to find a highly polished wooden plank floor crowded with wood furniture and a short ladder at the rear leading up to what can only be described as a box-sized bedroom.
White lace and the complete lack of electronic conveniences and products complete the illusion that you have been transported back in time.
Santana is certainly a tourist destination where history comes alive in modern Madeira and it is highly recommended as an interesting and unique place to visit.
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