On the banks of the Ganges, Rishikesh is home to sages and saints, a gateway to the Himalaya, a paradise for lovers of New-Age spiritual practices, and the self-proclaimed yoga capital of the world.
For Hindus it is the starting point of pilgrimages to the Char Dham, the four sacred cities of Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, and Badrinath.
Walking around the narrow lanes of Rishikesh, you are surrounded by the young and old in a rainbow of attire: sadhus with dreadlocks and painted faces; hippies in jeans; traditional Hindus; small children in saffron robes who are learning to pray; and tourists from all over the world.
Monkeys and cows (sacred to Hindus) wander the city freely.
The temples and idols in Rishikesh are not devoted to any one god, and it is equally known as a center of yoga and Ayurvedic healing, spiritual retreat, and music and dance classes.
Along the Ganges on the eastern side of the city lie areas that are ideal for meditation; these can be found only on foot.
It is indeed primarily a walking city, but shared tempos (motorized rickshaws) can be used to get around.
In the evenings, most temples hold the Ganga Arti, in which priests light huge candles to venerate the river with chanting and the tolling of temple bells.
The closest airport is the Jolly Grand in Dehradun, with flights from Delhi.
From there take a taxi to Rishikesh.
You can also get trains and buses direct from Delhi to Rishikesh.
There are hotels to suit every budget, but book in advance.
A week is generally enough to get a good sense of the city and its nearby ashrams and temples.
Be very careful if you take a dip in the Ganges.
The current is very fast even if the surface looks calm.
Alcohol is not allowed in the city, and most restaurants serve vegetarian meals without garlic.